Nothing rhymes with "Henge"

Stonehenge

This blog is essentially based upon postcards I send to a few friends on days out. The vast majority of posts with be reviewing places of an historical and cultural nature – so expect a lot of English Heritage, National Trust and Cadw, a fair handful of museums, and maybe the odd Lighthouse. The challenge was where to write about first, in conclusion it was to follow cliché, had to start with a big one, UNESCO World Heritage standard. Stonehenge:

Stonehenge is one of those places that you need to see at least once in your life.

But be prepared for crowds.

As soon as you get to Amesbury on the A303 you’ll hit traffic, and it won’t really let up. Once you’re past the admission, jump on to the bus service to drive you the mile or so to the stones, and you’ll begin to make the shuffle towards the monument.

The stones are a marvel to look at, a testament to engineering in a bygone era of sticks, mud and rocks. Sarsens and Trilithons – these are pretty big rocks. Even more impressive is that the Bluestones to the centre of the circle were brought from the Preseli Mountains in west Wales, c.150 miles away (Not 46 as claimed by Ylvis – more of them later).

While the crowd procession pulses around the circle, make sure to grab a moment to just look and take the inevitable million photos, you’ll soon find yourself swept back up in the current again. There really are a lot of people. To contextualise the appeal that Stonehenge has, generates so much footfall and revenue that it is classed as its own territory within the structure of English Heritage (one of 4).

This brings to bare a very important paradox with the heritage industry: how do you conserve and protect while remaining accessible for everyone? Unless you’ve been to Stonehenge for the Solstice, or not been for a very long time, you won’t be walking among the stones. Instead you follow a purpose walkway which will take you around them, while going over the outer ditch and a few Aubrey Holes. The purpose of the guided walkway is to allow for access towards and around the site, while also restricting access in order to preserve the archaeology both above and below ground. With over a million (and growing numbers of) visitors to Stonehenge every year, there does pose a very real risk of significant damage.

Places of historical and cultural significance in Britain have been unwittingly destroyed by an influx of visitors and souvenir-seekers – King Arthur’s Tomb in Glastonbury, and the original Royal Oak near Boscobel House were casualties of their own popularity with Antiquarians. In my opinion English Heritage and The National Trust (the care of Stonehenge is a joint venture between the two) do a tasteful job on this matter.

It must be said – (insert Leonard Nimoy Voice) - that the greater appeal of Stonehenge comes from what can only be imagined: the myths and the unknown that seem to generate so many of those ‘unsolved mystery’ documentary programs. Even in popular culture, spoof bands Spinal Tap and Ylvis have produced songs on the subject. It may even be a “giant granite birthday cake”. Yet among all this mystical thought, in reality once you reach the stones, you cannot help get even a little niggling “is this all?” voice - you may even hear someone say ‘it’s only rocks’.

To really appreciate Stonehenge you need to step away from the stones and the crowds, and head to the other henge just up the road.

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Woodhenge

Woodhenge is located just to the north of Amesbury, up the road towards Larkhill Camp. Featuring 6 concentric circles of wood posts, Woodhenge is less-known as its stony relation but is relatively simple to find and away from the masses and the A303. Plus you can wonder through the henge itself. The postholes have been sealed with concrete stumps (tastefully shaped like tree stumps), allowing you to get into the center.

Site of The Stonehenge Cursus

From Woodhenge you can walk, via the Cuckoo Stone landmark, to a ridge of barrows and truly survey the landscape in which Stonehenge was built. In stark contrast to the peace and quiet you now find yourself in, the landscape is incredibly busy. Directly in front of you and rolling out like a huge carpet you can make out the huge Stonehenge Cursus. All over the scene lay multiple Barrows of varying shapes and sizes, but this is where Stonehenge really commands your attention.

The Avenue to Stonehenge

Sitting on the top of the rise just over a mile away, you can begin to regain a sense of wonder and enchantment. Leading up to the Stones you can make out The Avenue – the supposed processional route from the River Avon to the entrance of the henge. From this angle you can also just about make out the line in which the solstice runs through the stones. If you choose you can walk across the landscape, to which I will recommend sturdy boots, and probably a full day to wander.

Enjoy!

Top Tip: Explore the landscape from Woodhenge, then head to the Stonehenge Visitor Centre for a coffee/cake before heading to the Stones. Really is the best order to enjoy the day.

Best Avoid: Try not to listen to that Ylvis song before you go. It’s top ear-worm material.