Here’s the Llŷn…

Tour of the Llŷn Peninsular in 5 steps.

July 2017 I was on a North Wales odyssey, a tour around the coast and through the mountains the week before graduating from an MA at Aberystwyth University. It was, in all senses, an extension of a ‘Three Days - Three Castles’ trip I did about 9 months before (September 2016), after handing in the dissertation for the MA. Having acquired a car in the interim and coupled with a burgeoning passion for Castles (more on that on Blog reviews for the Castles in this area), I went on an exploration of a few nooks and crannies in Clwyd, Anglesey and Gwynedd.

This blog focuses on 1 particular day exploring one of the most spectacular areas of North Wales, an area which I had often spotted on the horizon while at university in Aberystwyth, the fork of Wales, the Llŷn Peninsular.

The Peninsular bends around the top of Cardigan Bay with prongs protruding into the Irish Sea, stretching from the mouth of the Afon Dwyryd to the end of the Menai Straight. For my journey we started from out from Criccieth and ended just outside Nefyn before heading back to BnB base.

1. Abersoch

A lot of the coastline and hill tops around Llŷn are lined with holiday villages and hotels. As such it is actually fairly difficult for the casual explorer to find decent places to park, with most roads and track ways leading to campsite receptions and hotel property. Not to mention the remaining spaces being Pay & Display.

After driving through Pwhelli and the small town of Abersoch (which from the outset are exactly like most quintessential seaside towns on the edge of something – a good home-base for supplies but living past former hey-days) I pull up in a Pay & Display for Machroes beach. Located just outside Abersoch, this large expanse of sand has plenty of room to cater to the multiple holiday sites around.

Sitting in a slight hook of Abersoch Bay, it faces North East, allowing for great views around the top of end of Cardigan Bay. From the top hill campsites you can likely see across to Barmouth and further south, but from the beach you can get most of the sweep from Abersoch, past Criccieth and around to Harlech. Certainly worth the stop for a few minutes and a few pictures in the morning before the rest of the holiday-goers stir.

2. Plas yn Rhiw

Because of all the holiday camps, it’s difficult by car to stop on the Mynydd Cilan headland. (The hill top that covers the land around Abersoch, Bwlchtocyn, Cilan Uchaf and Rhydolion). There is Porth Ceiriad to be found, but you do need to know where you’re going to navigate around this bottom fork of the peninsular.

Coming around the headland you drop down onto a large flat valley of farm & marshland fronted by a massive beach – Porth Neigwl aka “Hell’s Mouth”. The beach is 4 miles broad and littered with surfers. The big waves and big wind that make it a surfer’s paradise are also how it got its nick-name, as these conditions are treacherous for shipping.

On the opposing side is the Mynydd Rhiw headland. Following the road through a small wood rising up the hill you come across a small National Trust property called Plas yn Rhiw and a good excuse to stop for a wander and a coffee.

Plas yn Rhiw itself is a small 19th Century house built on a 16th Century manor. Around the house is a labyrinth of manicured gardens, with a meadow and walking routes around the estate. The house is only open certain times of the day, and I was too early in the morning to have a look inside, though the National Trust website hints that there is a good collection of items inside. Venturing around the grounds is a great way to stretch your legs, as it sits on the side of a hill above Hell’s Mouth, meaning the garden undulates and layers up like a terrace. The mix of hillside, woodland, sea and stone is very much like the kind of cottage properties you find in Cornwall and is perfect just to stop for a while.

3. Porth Y Swnt

Continuing down the road you come into the gorgeous little hamlet of Aberdaron. Making the village even more picturesque was the emergence of the sun after what had been a fairly overcast morning. Sunshine notwithstanding, being on the edge of peninsular still brings a gusty wind to the beach meaning you’ll spot the usual mix of public in anything from raincoats to swimming trunks, equipped with windbreakers and ice creams.

So very British in the most Welsh areas of Wales.

After grabbing a few supplies for lunch, a few rays and a sandblast on the beach you can pop in to the Porth Y Swnt centre. This place is a bit different. Somewhere closer to an art gallery than a museum; essentially it’s an ode to the peninsular and an interpretation of its environment, culture and history. The kind of place you need to visit and figure out for yourself.

The National Trust describe it as “a visitor centre like no other. It offers an introduction to the history and culture of Llŷn through audio, videos, sculptures and artwork.” The route through the centre immerses you in the different maritime environments – through The Deep, The Way and The Light to name a few. Many of the installations and interactive as well as contextualising the history of the place, such as of Bardsey Island’s lighthouse in The Light. The centre acts as a means to inspire you to get out and explore the landscape, as well as a central point for many means to explore. There are multiple walks you can do, including the “Edge of Wales Walk” and those following in the steps of Pilgrims to Bardsey Island.

4. Uwchmynydd (Mynydd)

Plenty of wildlife to be found along the Llyn

Having 4 wheels and an engine to cover the distance, the final leg to the very tip of Llŷn takes a little trial and error of navigating on the headland. While the footpaths hug the cliff edges to bring you around to the Mynydd Observation Post, by road you can stumble upon the familiar problem of emerging in Campsites and private farms around the beautifully named Uwchmynydd settlement.

If you persist, eventually you will come across the track that winds its way up the hillside and onto a concrete trackway, leading to the summit and end of the peninsular. Before the concrete trackway, there is a small car park you can stop to walk along the last patches of the clifftop right to the edge of the headland – if you’re like me and enjoy getting right to the very end of a piece of land to say you’ve been there.

Top car park located, you’re in for some stunning views in all 360˚ on top of the hill. Immediately across the water to the South West is Bardsey Isle, lighthouse in clear perspective. To the South East you can see down the Cambrian Coast to the mountain top of Cadir Idris. To the North East you can look up the spine of the peninsular, as the mountains build up and ridge towards Snowdon, while catching site of Holyhead Mountain in the North West.

You can see Ireland from here (Wicklow Mountains)

If you are lucky (armed with a decent zoom and focus on your camera + a touch of photo adjustment) on a clear sunny day you can glimpse the Wicklow Mountains in Ireland out to the West!

Yes, really.

Easy to see why this spot was a Coastguard lookout station for a while. The remnants of, and hut, are still here although the hut is locked, meaning you wouldn’t have much shelter up here from the rain without a car.

This is one of the most panoramic spots in North Wales, you will have to reach the top of Holyhead & Snowdon Mountains to see much further all around. You may even find yourself saying “Wow” more than any character played by Owen Wilson. However you may be saying it even more by the time you reach the last stop on the tour…

5. Porthdinllaen

Porthdinllaen is a hidden gem. Hidden by the spit of land it sits on outside Nefn and a gem for the beauty of the bay (and by having a pub on the beach!).

The coast road heading up the North side of Llŷn also has that Cornish feel to it – craggy and narrow in places, off-shoot tracks that head to tiny bays and beaches. However the mountains inland and Welsh road signs (there are not very many bi-lingual road signs this far out of Pwhelli) give the route an unmistakable identity. Along the way there are the coves and beaches of Porthor and Porth Colmon you can stop at, but there are plenty of amenities to be found at Porthdinllaen to draw you and keep you there. (Did I mention the pub in the beach?).

The National Trust maintain the coastline here and operate a moderate grass carpark on top of the cliffs (Members park for free when you scan your membership card). Even from the top of the car park you can see how Mediterranean Porth Nefn Bay is. Llŷn d’Azur. In theory you can drive around to the settlement at Porthdinllaen, but it is far better to park up and walk along the beach. The hidden bay is North-facing so protected from the same winds that ravage Aberdaron beach & Hell’s Mouth, making it pretty warm in the sunshine. No raincoats and windbreakers to be found on this end of the bay.

After a 45minute casual stroll up the sands you reach the main settlement. What would have been a fishing village is now maintained as a collection of holiday-lets. It’s a great base for walks, paddle-boarding and there are plenty of little boats dotted about. This is also the focal point for everyone staying at or visiting the bay, so be prepared to be doing a little pavement-battle with everyone while passing through. If space allows, the Tŷ Coch pub is a classic old pub that does local beers and perfectly placed to grab a pint to enjoy in the sun. From this spot it really does feel as close to the Riviera as you can be in Wales – Clear azure water, boats bobbing on the surface, sands stretching around the cove and mountains in the background.